Blog for Beaders

Riveting metal pieces together in jewelry making is a great alternative to soldering. Riveting is a cold connection method, meaning there is no heat applied. This is useful if using flammable or fragile materials in your design. A rivet looks much like a two-headed nail. The use of rivets provides an easy and inexpensive way to create pieces that are multi-dimensional and also moveable if you so desire.

STEP 1:

Mark where you want to place your rivets using a pen.

STEP 2:

Create the holes with a hole punch in both pieces of metal. For 36 gauge copper metal sheets use a standard hole punch.

For thicker-gauge metal use a heavy-duty hole punch.
STEP 3:

Push the rivet through the two metal pieces you want to connect.

STEP 4:

Turn your piece over and tap the end of the rivet with a hammer until it forms a nail head. The more you tap with the hammer the tighter fit you will achieve.

Your new metal embellishment is now ready to be part of a cool and unique jewelry idea!

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After featuring this bracelet on our Chocolate Cake Day blog post a while back, there has been a huge request for the instructions for this beautiful bracelet. Perfect as a last-minute Valentine’s Day gift or for any other day of the year, you can create delightful romance when you wear this simple yet stylish piece. All you will need for this jewelry idea are five 12mm chocolate glaze smoked topaz Beadelle round pavé beads and approximately 8 to 9 feet of satin cord in the color Coffee.

Step One

Cut the satin cord into one strand 4.5 feet and fold it in half. Cut two other strands approximately 20 inches long and place one of them between the two folded strands. Set the other aside for now. You should now be ready to work with three strands running parallel. Tie a knot at the bottom of the center strand and thread the beads onto this strand, pushing them to the bottom. Wrap a small piece of tape around the top end of the center silk strand to make it easier to thread your beads through. You may also find it easier to tape the folded piece and the top of the 20-inch strand to a work surface while knotting.

Step Two

Move the right side of the cord over the center strand and then under the left side of cord. Now take the left side under the center strand and up through the loop you just created.

Step Three

Now, go the opposite direction. Take the left side of the cord over the center strand and under the right side. Then move the right side of the cord under the center strand and over the left cord through the loop you just created.

Step Four

Repeat this process six more times, and then push one bead up to rest against the last knot.

Step Five

Repeat steps Two and Three 3 times and then add another bead.

Do this for the remaining beads.

Step Six

Create seven more knots and then add a small dab of GS Hypo fabric glue to hold everything in place.

Step Seven

Snip off any remaining left and right side cords so only the center strand remains for both ends of the bracelet.

Step Eight

Cross the ends over one another to create two new parallel strands. Use the other 20-inch strand from Step One as your center strand and place it under the two ends.

Step Nine

Repeat steps Two and Three 4times or until you are satisfied with the length. This piece will act as the slider on the bracelet, so check the length to allow this piece to slide over your wrist and then cinch tightly. Tie the ends with a simple knot, add a dab of glue and then trim any excess.

If you’re in the mood for a more colorful idea, replace the chocolate glaze pavé beads with a rainbow collection of other 12mm Beadelle pavé rounds, and try working with 2mm satin cord in the color Plum. Mix and match for new ideas for every day of the year!

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Often, the difference between fair looking jewelry and professional looking jewelry is how the piece is finished. The use of clam shell bead tips, also known as calottes, is especially important to the look of hand-knotted jewelry projects. Clam shell bead tips can increase the value of a jewelry piece because they hide the knot at the end of the strand beautifully and reflect the attention to detail that buyers look for. There are several different styles of clam shell bead tips. The style you want to use depends on your application. A single open-loop bead tip is great to use for a necklace design, but may not be strong enough to use in a bracelet design. A double closed-loop bead tip, however, is durable enough for both. Here we will show how to use a double closed-loop bead tip. To see instructions on how to use a single open loop bead tip, click here.

Step One:

To begin your design, you will want to tie a knot in your stringing material. Pull the string through the hole in the bead tip so that the knot rests in the tip. You want to make sure that the loops on the bead tip are pointing towards the ends of your design, where you will be attaching a toggle or clasp. Make sure the knot is big enough to ensure that you cannot pull it through. You may need to tie multiple knots to achieve this.

Step Two:

Trim the excess stringing material and dab the knot with a dot of GS-Hypo Cement to hold it in place.

Step Three:

Using chain nose pliers, gently press both sides of the bead tip together until they close.

Step Four:

Using chain nose pliers, gently pinch the hinge on the back of the bead tip. Do this on both sides to create a tight closure.

Step Five:

Create a knot just behind your bead tip. This will ensure that the metal does not fray your stringing material with repeated wear.

Step Six:

String your beads. We chose to use a strand of pearls separated by knots.

Step Seven:

Finish this end in the same manner as above only this time, create a knot at the end of your bead strand then pull the end of the stringing material up through the bead tip. Make sure the bead tip loops are pointing towards the end of your design.

Step Eight:

Create a big enough knot that it cannot slip through the bead tip hole and trim the excess stringing material. Add a dot of GS-Hypo cement to the knot and close the bead tip around the knot. Be sure to use a pair of chain nose pliers to pinch the back hinge on the bead tip for a tight closure.

Step Nine:

Add jump rings and a toggle or clasp of your choice.

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End caps and crimp ends can provide professional looking results to your jewelry pieces. As indicated by the name, they are most often used to finish the ends of jewelry. We have expanded our selection of end caps and crimp ends to accommodate your every need. We have a large assortment to choose from and here we will show you some tips on how to use the different styles in your jewelry.

Round End Cap with a Loop

STEP ONE:
When using a round end cap it’s important to add a small amount of adhesive to your stringing material before attaching to the end cap. We will be using E-6000 and rubber cord in this example. If you plan to attach your end cap to a different component that cannot be opened, such as a closed jump ring, you must do so before gluing.

STEP TWO:
Place the end cap on one end of the rubber strand. Be sure not to push the stringing material all the way through the end cap.

STEP THREE:
Place some type of a clamp on the end cap if needed. Allow glue to dry.

Crimp End Caps

STEP ONE:
You may want to finish each end with different types of end caps, depending on the design. In this example, when working with a 3mm braided leather cord, we finished one end with an end cap with a loop and the other end using an end cap with a hook. Both end caps are used in the same way.

STEP TWO:
Insert the stringing material into the end cap. We recommend using an adhesive to ensure a strong hold, although it is not required. If using an adhesive, be sure to use only a small amount to minimize seepage. Slowly and gently squeeze the center of the end cap with a pair of chain nose pliers until it crimps down onto the stringing material.

Tip: If you are having trouble with your glue, scratch the leather a bit on the end with a fingernail to remove the shiny exterior. When it is more porous, the glue holds better. Also remember to let the glue dry for at least 24 hours for a strong bond.

Crimp End with a Loop

STEP ONE:
Here we used a crimp end cap with a loop. Simply place your stringing material into the crimp end cap and gently squeeze with a pair of chain nose pliers or nylon jaw pliers until completely closed. Adhesive is recommended but not required.

U-Shaped Ribbon Ends

STEP ONE:
These style of end caps are generally used to finish ends of ribbons and fibers. Once you have placed your stringing material inside the end cap, gently squeeze with a pair of nylon jaw pliers. We recommend using the nylon jaw pliers for this style end cap to avoid marring up the finish. Again, adhesive is recommended but not required.

End Cap with a Loop

STEP ONE:
This type of end cap is simple to use. Place the end cap onto your stringing material and crimp it down with a pair of chain nose pliers or nylon jaw pliers. Try using this end cap with a jump ring before a jewelry clasp instead of a crimp end. Adhesive is recommended but not required.

You’ll be ready to explore all new stringing materials that you can work into your jewelry designs in no time! Just be sure to always use the right crimp end or end cap for your specific idea.

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Today we shine the spotlight on a lovely element: borosilicate glass. This special composite often found in lampwork designs is a type of glass which includes at least five percent boric oxide. This oxide allows the glass to resist extreme temperatures, ideal in lampworking. It is also resistant to chemical corrosion, although this glass is more likely to crack or snap, rather than shatter, if broken. Borosilicate glass can handle both very hot and very cold temperatures, which is important for chemical storage. This is why you will often find science labs with beakers and test tubes made from this component.

This strong glass contains silica and boron oxide, both important properties for molding glass to create beautiful lampwork glass beads. You can check out our entire collection of boro glass beads available in a wild variety of colors to design unique jewelry with a strong focal.

You can locate the lampwork necklace idea from the image above here.

Information Source: wisegeek.com

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Design professional jewelry with personal style with our collection of ring shanks! The ring shank is the term for the band part of a ring, and these flat ring shanks and hollow tubes are a quick and easy way to create one-of-a-kind ring designs. Each flat shank is made from pre-measured, textured, flat wire, with pre-drilled holes, while the ring tubes are pre-measured, hollow and easy to feed sterling or gold-filled wire through. Though there are limitless ways to embellish these ring shanks, we will show you one quick way to get you started for each type.

Hollow Ring Shank Idea

Step One:
If you’re working with a hollow tube shank, you must first choose your wire. We used a 22 gauge sterling silver wire. Depending on the beads and components you want to work with, your size may vary. However, be sure to choose a wire that is size 20 gauge or smaller. Feed the wire through one end of the tube until it comes out the other side of the tube to expose both ends of the wire.

Step Two:
String your bead onto one end of the wire. Pass the other end of the wire through the opposite hole in the bead.

Step Three:
Create a wire wrap on both sides of your bead. You may want to keep your ring on a mandrel at this point to keep from misshaping it. Once your wire wraps are complete, cut excess wire, and enjoy your creation!

Flat Ring Shank Idea

Step One:
To use a flat ring shank, first use your fingers to bend the shank around a ring mandrel at the appropriate size. You can roll the mandrel with the ring shank attached on a hard, non-marring surface to help get the shank perfectly round.

Step Two:
Once the ring shank has been bent to size, it is ready to embellish. For our design we decided to use our chain nose pliers to make a bend just under the pre-drilled holes in the shank. Your shank ends should now be pointing up.

Step Three:
Cut a piece of wire to the appropriate size. We used a one inch piece for our particular design.

Step Four:
Finish one end of the wire. We finished ours with a small loop. Then, trim any excess wire.

Step Five:
Pass the open end of the wire through the small hole on one side of the shank, then through the bead, and then through the hole on the opposite side of the shank.

Step Six:
Finish the open end of the wire with a loop. You may want to finish your ring while it’s on the ring mandrel to keep from misshaping it. Then, trim any excess wire.

You’re now ready to show off your fun new design! Make unique rings for friends and family that will look like professional pieces by incorporating your favorite colors and components.

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We love these new Lillypilly copper sheets decorated with a lovely patina finish, and we know you will, too! You may be wondering what patina means, so we’re here to explain it!

The patination process for both copper and bronze is a natural progression over time. As copper ages it grows a colored layer to protect it from corrosion called patina. This layer is caused from oxidization and is often blue or green naturally, known as acquired patina. With the help of science, however, manufacturers looking to replicate the process for aesthetic reasons use chemicals to manipulate the colors and produce everything from red to black. This is called applied patina or distressing.

You can discover new dimensions in style with these Lillypilly patina copper sheets. One side shines with its warm copper color, while the other side is exposed to a special patina color pattern. From dark spots to cool blue coloring, browse different colors and patterns for just the right one. Each sheet is coated with a protective wax, and should be coated with another layer of paste wax (like car wax or floor wax) to maintain the colorful appearance. Due to this process, each copper sheet will display its own pattern of coloring, too, so your piece is sure to be one of a kind.

Our designers got to play with some of these new sheets and made a cool pair of earrings, and we want to share their idea with you! To make the earrings, you will need a pair of metal shears, a hole punch, round paper punch, metal files and your choice of copper sheet. Look for some of these components under our jewelry making tools and supplies section. Remember to wax your copper piece before working with it to maintain its color.

Trace your design on the copper sheet and cut it out using the shears.

Use the file to smooth out the sharp edges.

The paper punch helped create the circular pieces. Please note that you should not use a paper punch to cut paper once it has been used to cut metal, and should only be used with the 36 gauge sheets.

The smaller holes at the top were made with a hole punch, and then the earring finding was thread through this small hole.

Check out our collection of patina copper sheets from Lillypilly and find your favorite design to get inspired!

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You may have heard some of your favorite jewelry components being made of britannium, or Britannia metal, but do you know what it is? Artbeads is here to inform you on what you may be wearing in your designs!

Britannia metal is a pewter-type alloy that is popular for its rich silver color. This metal alloy is comprised mainly of tin, about 93%, but also contains 5% antimony and 2% copper. First produced in 1769, britannium was first known as “Vickers White Metal” by manufacturers Ebenezer Hancock and Richard Jessop. After the discovery of electroplating with silver, this was used as the base metal for silver-plated household goods.

This lead-free material is highly popular! The Oscar statues given out for the Academy Awards are made from britannium plated with gold. Next time you wear your favorite britannium pieces, you could think of clutching your own Oscar!

So, essentially, this material is made from lead-free pewter. You can check out some of our popular lead-free pewter jewelry supplies now and start creating your own unique designs!

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Niobium is a hypo-allergenic material that is great to use in jewelry designs because it is safe for anyone to wear, especially those with metal allergies. With advancements in technology, we can create colorful earwires for fun elements instead of plain, grey components that need dressing up. How niobium earwires get painted with color is actually a surprising process, because they aren’t actually “colored” in the way you would think. Let’s take a look at the process.

First off, it’s important to know the components of niobium. Much like precious metals, niobium is very flexible and slowly hardens. It can be easily manipulated with a jeweler’s saw and has about twice the density of titanium, but is only about a third as dense as gold. At room temperatures, a thin, transparent and adherent oxide film forms on the metal’s surface. This protects the metal from corrosion and also protects the wearer from the metal. Niobium reacts with atmospheric oxygen and other gases at certain temperatures, making it a reactive metal. This element of the niobium is what aids in the coloring process. The color coating on niobium goes through a similar process like gold plating, but is extremely different. The color is anodized to the niobium, not plated.

The anodizing process works to increase the natural oxide layer of the metal by manipulating the electrodes found in niobium with an electric current. For this, wrought alloys are cleaned in either a hot soak cleaner or in a solvent bath mixed with sodium hydroxide or other acidic chemicals. The layer on the metal is increased by placing the metal in the electrolytic solution, with the metal acting as the anode (positive electrode) to complete the electric current.

Changing the voltage on the electrolytic solution is what determines the color of the niobium when it is submerged. This is because the voltage directly correlates to the thickness of the oxide layer. The oxide layer interferes with the light reflecting off its surface and then traveling through the underlying metal surface, thus determining the color you will see.

Since niobium starts out as a pewter grey color, it takes a higher voltage to create bright colors like hot pink and neon green as opposed to base metal colors like gold or copper. For example, it takes about 100 volts to create a purple-pink effect on niobium but only about 10 volts for a golden copper color. This process makes it possible to make a variety of different colors, although base metal tones are still the most popular in fashion trends. Check out our collection of niobium earwires available to use in designing decorative ideas.

Sources for all Photos: YouTube.

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Seed bead designs are intricate and detailed, and some can be considered wearable works of art! If you’re interested in seed beading but have been too afraid to take the plunge, you no longer need to fear. We will break down the basics and help get you started with seed beads.

Seed Bead Terminology
Seed Bead: A small bead usually round in shape used in loom bead weaving, off-loom bead weaving, and jewelry designs.

Delica: A cylindrical-shaped seed bead very consistent in size and shape. These are high-quality beads that will give you exact shapes in looming or weaving.

Tila: A flat, square-shaped seed bead with dual stringing holes and angular corners. These beads are much thinner so should be handled with care to avoid fractures.

Loom Weaving: Weaving seed beads on a strand using a loom and following a graph or charted pattern.

Off-Loom Weaving: Stitching seed beads with a needle and thread rather than using a loom to create patterns. You may use common stitching techniques to achieve different patterns.

Stitch: Different weaving patterns used with seed beads. Some more common stitches are Peyote stitch, Herringbone stitch and Square stitch.

Tools You will Need

Seed Beads—make sure to purchase quality beads because oftentimes large-chain craft stores will carry seed beads with uneven shapes and sizes, making your projects difficult to complete. Seed beads are measured like wire gauges: the higher the number, the smaller the size of the bead. For example, an 11/0 is smaller than an 8/0 size.

Beading thread—the most commonly used beading thread is Nymo waxed nylon thread or Silamide nylon thread. Either one is a great choice for beginners, and either one comes in a variety of different colors. You may want to first purchase a neutral color like white. Normal sewing thread will not work in seed bead work because it breaks too easily and discolors quickly.

Beading Needles—unlike sewing needles, these needles are specially made to make the eye of the needle as close to the width of the entire needle as possible. The size of a needle is similar to the way the beads are sized; the higher the number the thinner the needle. A good way to determine what size needle you will need is to use one size smaller than the size of the beads you’re using. For example, you should use a number 12 needle with 11/0 seed beads.

Bead Mat—this is handy if you lay your beads out to keep them from scattering across your work area and possibly breaking.

Seed Bead Books—some seed bead books are great to have available to find simple stitch techniques or patterns you want to try. These books also often provide project ideas to help spark inspiration or for practice.

Scissors—find a small pair for cutting close to your beadwork.

Some designers find inspiration for their creations from pieces they’ve seen before, so your best bet for getting started is to take a look at some of our free seed bead jewelry ideas to spark your inspiration. These ideas are all available at our Learning Center and include step-by-step instructions as well as a list of components used for each idea.

Take what you’ve learned today and venture on over to our seed bead page! It may seem like you’re still not sure where to go from here, but trust us—everyone has to start slow and practice many times. In no time you’ll be a seed bead expert!

Do you have the need…the need to seed bead?

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