Jewelry links are an excellent way to create a multi-stranded design or to make a dangling focal for an elaborate piece. There are so many ways to use links it often becomes overwhelming and beginning beaders shy away from exploring new options. The simplest way to use a link is to create two separate strands and then connect them to a link with jump rings. This will add length to your looks and create more dimension! Here are few more ways you can add links to your next idea:
Set off a focal point in a necklace
Create an asymmetric look with one side single strand and the other side multi-strand
Embellish with flatbacks to create a unique pendant
Add a dangling charm to an earring idea
Discover what fun new creations you come up with when you work links into your designs. Check out some free jewelry ideas below to incorporate links for some inspiration!
We’ve just launched some cool new anodized aluminum sheets from Lilypilly that are a great way to create unique jewelry components. You may be wondering how anodized aluminum is made. Well, we’re here to explain. Much like anodized niobium, the process of anodized aluminum increases the natural layer of oxide on the material by soaking it in a solvent bath, manipulating the electrodes with an electric current in order to achieve a specific color. This makes the aluminum much harder than natural aluminum and also increases resistance to corrosion.
First, wrought allows are cleaned in either a hot soak cleaner or a solvent bath. Then, a direct current is passed through the electrolytic solution and the aluminum piece is used as the anode, or positive electrode, to complete the current. This current releases hydrogen at the negative electrode and oxygen at the surface of the aluminum anode, creating a buildup of aluminum oxide.
The electric current running through can be manipulated to change the final color and the layer thickness, but this all depends on the chemical makeup of the solvent bath.
You can browse our selection of anodized aluminum sheets that are finished with beautiful colors and patterns. You can even make cute components like this heart clasp from our Mama’s Boy bracelet, a free idea from the Learning Center.
Want to create a dazzling display of seed beads around your favorite cabochon for a remarkable hand-made bezel? This simple two-bead backstitch is perfect for beginners. We’ll show you how to create a border around a large pendant, and then how to embellish it with floral accents. Just choose your favorite cabochon or pendant to work with and thread in a complementing color. We are using red in order for you to better see it. The first thing you will need to do is glue your component to one piece of Lacy’s Stiff Stuff using Gem-Tac permanent adhesive. Allow the adhesive to dry completely.
Cut a long piece of thread for your project. A good rule of thumb when making seed bead designs is to use no longer than an arm’s length. Thread one beading needle and tie a knot at the end to secure. Condition the thread with beeswax or Thread Heaven.
Step One:
Thread two seed beads onto the needle and line them up along the edge of the cabochon. Push the needle down through the Stiff Stuff and pull it through.
Step Two:
Come back up through the Stiff Stuff, closest to the first bead.
Step Three:
Bring the needle back through both seed beads.
Step Four:
Thread two new seed beads onto the needle.
Step Five:
Push the needle down through the Stiff Stuff, closest to the last bead.
Step Six:
Count three beads back from the last bead, and bring the needle up between this third bead and the first bead. Be sure not to pierce the needle through the thread as this will damage the design.
Step Seven:
Pass the needle through the first three beads.
Step Eight:
Continue this process for the remainder of your piece. You can create multiple borders along the edge using this same technique.When you’re finished, trim the excess Stiff Stuff.
Flower Embellishments:
We added flower embellishments to hide the large stringing hole in our pendant. First, cut approximately 3 feet of thread and condition it as before. Bring the needle up through the stringing hole.
Step One:
Thread the desired flowers onto the needle and allow them to rest on top of the pendant.
Step Two:
Thread 3 seed beads onto the needle. Run the needle through the second bead, skipping the first. Bring the needle back down through the stringing hole to create a loop.
Step Three:
Repeat Step Three to make a second loop for the flower.
Step Four:
Do this for as many flowers as you like and then sew a knot on the back of the Stiff Stuff to secure the flowers. Trim any excess thread.
Step Five:
Once you are finished, cut a second piece of Stiff Stuff and glue it to the first and then trim the excess. This will hide your stitching. You can use felt or permanent marker to color the Stiff Stuff so it matches the colors in your piece.
Lampwork glass is created by manipulating molten glass and shaping it into delicate beads. If you remember from our previous post, What is Borosilicate Glass, we explained that boro glass is a hard composite that can sustain extreme temperatures. Not all lampwork glass is made from borosilicate glass, though. Some is made from soft glass, also called “soda-lime glass.”
Borosilicate Glass
Borosilicate glass is a much harder glass which must contain at least 5% boric oxide. This oxide is what allows the glass to resist extreme temperatures. Although this glass has to be melted at a much higher temperature than soft glass, it is more resistant to chemical corrosion and will snap if it breaks, rather than shattering.
Soft Glass
Soft glass gets its alternate name, soda-lime glass, from the composites used to create it. This type of glass is made by melting raw materials like sodium carbonate (soda), lime, dolomite, silicon dioxide, aluminum oxide and traces of fining agents such as sodium sulfate or sodium chloride. These are all melted in a glass furnace and then molded. Soft glass is sometimes favored because it melts at lower temperatures, but is much more sensitive to extreme heat and cold so it can crack easily.
In the past, these two types of glass had very different color palettes. Soft glass was available in a variety of different colors for artistic purposes while boro glass was used for laboratory glass, so having colors for aesthetic reasons was not necessary. However, with borosilicate glass becoming more popular with artists, and soft glass workers wanted to use the silver strike found in boro glass, these two have become much more similar in appearance.
You can explore our entire collection of lampwork glass beads and browse the different types of glass used in some of our favorite beads. Lampwork beads always make wonderful focal points in jewelry and are so beautiful they can even be strung alone. Because every lampwork bead is made by hand, each one is special. This means your designs are sure to be unique!
Learn how to make a love knot bracelet in no time! This simple yet stylish jewelry design has long been regarded as a symbol of love, representing the everlasting and constant bond between two people. You can make a love knot bracelet for a friend or family member as a thoughtful gift. We’ll show you how to make this bracelet using SilverSilk knitted wire in two different colors.
Cut two pieces of SilverSilk approximately 7 ½ inches. Fold one strand in half and insert both ends into one double strand end cap. Clamp down using nylon jaw pliers for a firm hold. Repeat this process for the other SilverSilk chain. Connect them by threading one loop through the other, folding the top loop over itself and pulling it through. Finish each end with one 1.27×6.3mm open jump ring and connect your clasp to the jump rings.
If you need a little extra help you can watch the video above or visit our SilverSilk resources page for more helpful hints and quick videos. Remember, if you cut the chain to the length as instructed, your bracelet will be approximately 7 inches long. This may fit too snug on your wrist or fit too loosely depending on the style of clasp you use. If you decide to finish with a lobster clasp, you can create an extender chain using jump rings or view our selection of finished extender chains to make your bracelet adjustable.
You’ve probably heard of our wonderful base metal jewelry supplies, but do you know what they’re made of? Here’s a quick definition of base metal, pulled from our Glossary in the Learning Center:
Base metal is metal that oxidizes easily when exposed to air or moisture. These metals are more common than precious metals such as gold, silver and platinum, and thus are more widely used when making jewelry supplies. Base metal gets its name because it is often the type of material which precious metal is bonded to. Base metals include aluminum, brass, copper and nickel.
Browse through our collection of base metal jewelry components and add these great staples to your collection. If you want to learn more about beading basics, brush up with our beading glossary in the Learning Center. You can even make a cool base metal design like our Cheetah Chain Belt!
Every master craftsman (or woman!) knows the importance of his (or her) tools. Jewelry making is no different. It’s essential to have quality tools for any project and ensure that your tools will last. If you have ever wondered which jewelry making tools should be used for what specific tasks and how to care for them, today’s your lucky day. We’ll explain to you some of the most basic tools, their functions and how to keep them in pristine condition.
The most important thing to know about caring for all of your tools is where to keep them. Sometimes sneaky spouses and kids will stumble upon high-quality crafting tools and use them to fix any number of odd jobs, potentially damaging them. Make sure to store your tools in a place you frequent but no one else does, and lie them flat to protect the ends. Humid areas can be especially harmful to tools, so take note that your tools should stay in well-ventilated places. If your tools somehow end up collecting a touch of rust, most of the time they can be cleaned with steel wool.
Now that you know how to store your tools, let’s explore some of the basics…
Side Cutters
Side cutters should be used when cutting head pins, eye pins and other very fine metals. The semi-flush cut is most common.
Nipper Tool
The nipper tool is perfect for cutting jewelry wire and soft wires up to 20g thickness. This tool is a good go-to cutter when performing basic beading projects.
Chain Nose Pliers
Chain nose pliers are ideal when shaping and bending wire. The tapered tips and smooth jaws make closing bead tips or crimping in tight places easy. You can also use chain nose pliers to open and close jump rings.
Round Nose Pliers
Round nose pliers should be used when making loops or for wire wrapping. They should not be used to open jump rings as the rounded ends make it hard to grip correctly.
Flat Nose Pliers
Use flat nose pliers to shape jewelry wire into right angles or to bend jewelry wire straight. The pointed ends allow you to grip flat objects with ease and are great for opening and closing jump rings as well.
Crimp Tool
The bead crimper tool is designed for finishing crimp tubes. This tool should only be used for this purpose. Its two separate notches in the jaws work in stages to ensure a professional crimp every time.
Heavy Duty Cutter
Use heavy-duty cutters for thick chains and other heavy-gauge components.
Nylon Jaw Pliers
Nylon Jaw Pliers are perfect for smoothing out wire ends in wrapped loops or for pinching crimp ends.
It’s also important to regularly check the jaws of pliers and cutters for any scratches that may appear over time. Sometimes you can file away tiny imperfections, but eventually you will need to invest in new tools. With these precautions, though, you can ensure that your tools will have the chance to live long and meaningful lives.
SilverSilk is a delicate, lightweight material you can use as a lovely alternative to other stringing materials. Made from thin knitted wires, SilverSilk is delicately beautiful and amazingly durable. With their growing popularity, SilverSilk has released different types of knitted wire. Here we will explain to you the differences between three different types so you can decide which style of knitted chain is best for your project. Whether you like flat, capture or pearlesque, all of our SilverSilk products for give you beautiful and unique results.
Flat
The Flat jewelry chain is made from knitted wire that is knitted round, and then put through a rolling mill to flatten it. This knit is a supple, light, flexible ribbon-like mesh that is created from a permanently enameled pure copper wire. It would be perfect for making bracelets and comes in a variety of different finishes.
Capture
The original Capture knit gets its name from the six wires are knitted around a beaded chain, capturing the shimmering light reflections and strength of the chain. You could use this material to create a simple necklace or bracelet, or you could pair it with other stringing material for a cool multi-stranded idea.
Pearlesque
The beautiful Pearlesque is is similar to the Capture style. However, this type features six AB metallic threads surrounding a beaded chain on the inside, which is then covered by a third layer of knitted threads. Its three layers allow for more dimension in your designs, and the AB finish on the inside plays with the light to make this strand sparkle. Use it to make lovely necklaces and bracelets.
Here at Artbeads, we know tarnish never sleeps! Exposure to air and moisture create tarnish and it darkens the bright, white shine of silver. We do what we can to keep silver products from getting tarnished—store in sealed plastic bags with carbon paper strips to absorb moisture—yet the tarnish still settles on anything it can.
Different types of silver items require different handling. For example, a silver-plated tray cannot withstand weekly polishing with an abrasive cleanser because the plating will eventually wear off. Similarly, a highly detailed design that has been oxidized (blackened) to enhance the pattern should never be chemically cleaned or it would lose the detail. A delicate chain shouldn’t be pulled through a polishing cloth because it might stretch or break fine links. For these reasons we carry several tarnish removal products. Some require more elbow grease than others, but we will explain when to use these different types of cleaning techniques, including an old home remedy to remove tarnish.
It’s important to note that for very soiled silver, you must first carefully wash it with mild soap and water and dry thoroughly. You run the risk of scratching silver if you don’t remove any dirt first.
Polishing Cloths and Pads
The two-part polishing cloth will be familiar to most. The inner part is treated with jeweler’s rouge and will bring out the luster of your silver while removing any tarnish and dirt. The outer part is a flannel material that buffs away any residue and really makes a shine. These are never washed and can be used well after the inner cloth turns completely black. If it ever stops removing tarnish it’s time to purchase another one.
Euro-tool makes 2×2-inch polishing pads that are ideal for reaching tight spots and to avoid removing oxidation. These traditional Native American pieces would have been spoiled if the darkened patina was removed from the recesses. Here we were able to polish the high spots to a mirror shine and still maintain all the detail. These pads are disposable once they’re blackened and come in a package of twenty.
Microfiber has become as common as denim and nearly as useful! Our Artbeads microfiber cloth is perfect for any piece of jewelry and will not cause damage. Soft stones such as opals, malachite and pearls set in silver should only be cleaned with an un-treated cloth like this. These cloths are machine washable and last a long time. We keep finding other uses for them like cleaning electronic screens, wiping fog from windshields, and keeping eye glasses free of smudges. While we wouldn’t choose this to clean a very tarnished piece, it’s perfect for a quick wipe off when you notice it’s become a bit dull. Natural pearls should also be wiped with a soft cloth after wearing and before storing in a soft pouch, and the microfiber cloth is just right for the task.
Jewelry Cleaner
It may be time to bring out the “big guns”— Precious Metal Liquid Jewelry Cleaner. If you need to clean silver chain, elaborate filigree, wire work, delicate earrings, or other items that could be bent or damaged by rubbing with a cloth, this is what you should use. Be aware that if you were to spray it on an antique piece you could reduce its value by removing patina of age. Follow the directions on the bottle carefully, being certain to rinse the cleaned items and dry thoroughly.
Home Remedy
You may have seen silver cleaned with an old method that involves aluminum foil and baking soda. It can effectively remove tarnish, provided the items are in direct contact with the foil. First, line a glass pan with foil. Lay the item to be cleaned inside, fully submerge it in very hot water and then sprinkle a generous amount of baking soda over the piece. Keep in mind that your results will vary, and this method is not recommended. However, it’s a fun science experiment, doesn’t cost much to try and will continue to fascinate people!
For sparkling silver, maintenance and preventative measures will save you a lot of work. Keep your silver free of skin oils and dirt, and keep it sealed from humidity and air. If you store items that are difficult to clean carefully you won’t have to clean them as often!
When working with metal, one of the most helpful tools is a die and punch. This tool comes with a six-sided die with circular indents on each surface that vary in size, as well as punch indents. The use of this tool is called dapping, which means to dome metal. There are lots of materials that can be dapped such as sheet metal, coins, bottle caps, tokens, gears and charms. Dapping is a great way to make one of-a-kind jewelry components such as beads and bead caps, but it’s also an easy way to add some visual appeal to a charm or pendant. This is because a curved surface reflects more light than a flat surface, which results in a more captivating piece. A wood dapping set is ideal in jewelry making because it is gentler when curving the metal and will not scratch or mar precious metals. Here we will provide a few guidelines to follow when using the wood dapping set. Please note that safety should be your primary concern. Always wear eye protection!
Note: All stamping, texturing and holes should be completed prior to doming. Holes may need to be perfected after the dapping process. You can do this with a bead reamer, hole punch or re-drilling the hole site.
Step 1:
Place the metal, design side down, into one of the depressions in the dapping block. Be sure to use a much larger depression than the metal piece.
Step 2:
Hold the dapping punch firmly with one hand over the metal piece. I like to start close to the center of the piece I am doming.
Step 3:
Tap the dapping punch with a rubber or rawhide mallet several times. This process should be done gently because if you strike the punch with too much force the metal may not shape up evenly. You will see the metal start to take on the shape of the depression in the dapping block.
Step 4:
Continue to tap the dapping punch repeatedly with the mallet while moving the punch at an angle around the depression. This will help to ensure that the metal piece shapes up nicely.
Step 5:
Once you have dapped as much as you can in this depression you can move the metal piece to the next smaller depression and repeat the dapping process to create a deeper dome. Continue gradually decreasing the size of the depression used until the metal piece reaches the desired depth.
You should now have a curved shape rather than a flat one.
